A Daytime Tour of Nighttown: Walking Ulysses' Monto

“Nighttown” is Joyce’s name for Monto, the area of Dublin 1 roughly bounded by Foley Street, Tyrone Street, and Railway Street - once one of the largest and most notorious red-light districts in Europe. Victorian Dublin turned its back on it officially and visited it unofficially. Joyce sent Leopold Bloom and Stephen Dedalus wandering through it in the Circe episode of Ulysses, the novel’s longest and strangest chapter: surreal, theatrical, hallucinatory.

This walking tour takes you through what’s left of the neighbourhood in daylight, with readings from the text, the historical context of who lived here and why, and the story of how Monto was eventually dismantled in 1925 by a combination of clergy and gardaí. It starts at the James Joyce statue on North Earl Street, which is the right place to start.

What to Expect

A guided walking tour lasting around 90 minutes, led by someone who knows the area’s history and the relevant sections of Ulysses. You’ll walk the streets Joyce wrote about, hear passages read in context, and learn about the real women and men who lived and worked in Monto at the turn of the 20th century.

This is one of Dublin’s more overlooked historical areas. The literary connection brings people who know Ulysses well and people who know nothing about it - both can get something from a good guide who knows how to hold the room on a street corner.

Good to Know

• Tour begins at the James Joyce statue, North Earl Street, Dublin 1
• 11am start on a Saturday - wear comfortable shoes
• The tour runs in most weather; dress for April conditions in Dublin
• No prior knowledge of Ulysses required - the readings are done for you
• Small group sizes are typical for literary walking tours

Getting There

The James Joyce statue is on North Earl Street, directly opposite the Spire on O’Connell Street. It’s in the heart of Dublin’s north city centre. The Luas Red Line at Abbey Street is a 2-minute walk. Connolly Station is about 10 minutes on foot. Multiple Dublin Bus routes run along O’Connell Street.